There’s nothing quite like that sinking feeling when you hear the ‘crunch’ of a granite kerb against your pristine alloy wheels. Whether you were nipping into a tight spot in Tiverton or dodging a tractor on a narrow lane near Silverton, kerb damage happens to the best of us. Many folks assume a scuffed wheel means a trip to the scrap heap or a massive bill for a replacement, but that’s rarely the case.
After 40 years in the car body repair trade, I’ve seen alloy wheel technology change, but the secret to a perfect finish remains the same: meticulous preparation. Here is exactly how I restore your wheels to their former glory right here in Mid Devon.
Step 1: Deep Cleaning and Assessment
I can’t see the true extent of the damage until the wheel is spotless. I start by removing all the road grime, brake dust, and old weights. Once the wheel is clean, I inspect the ‘rash’ or scuff. If the rim is cracked or structurally buckled, I’ll be honest with you—it might need a specialist specialist weld. However, 95% of the damage I see is cosmetic kerbing, which is perfectly suited for alloy wheel restoration.
Step 2: Removing the Damage
Next, I carefully sand back the damaged area. This isn’t just about smoothing it over; it’s about removing the burrs of metal that the kerb pulled out. If the gouges are particularly deep, I use a high-quality metal-filled epoxy to rebuild the profile of the rim. This ensures that the circular shape of your wheel is perfectly restored, rather than just having a flat spot where the damage was.
Step 3: Precision Masking
One of the biggest concerns customers have is whether paint will get on their tyres. Because I provide a mobile service with a collection and return model, I have the time to do this properly. I deflate the tyre slightly to break the ‘bead,’ allowing me to mask behind the rim. This ensures the paint covers the very edge of the wheel without a drop touching the rubber.
Step 4: Priming and Colour Matching
Just like with car scratch repair, the primer is the foundation. I apply a high-build primer to seal the repair and provide a smooth surface. Once cured, I move on to the colour. Using my onboard paint mixing system, I can match thousands of manufacturer shades—from classic German silver to modern anthracite and gloss blacks. I apply several thin, even coats to ensure a factory-standard finish.
Step 5: The Protective Clear Coat
The final step is the lacquer, or clear coat. This is what gives the wheel its shine and, more importantly, protects the paint from the elements and corrosive brake dust. For wheels that have seen better days, this stage is often combined with paint correction techniques on the rest of the car to make the whole vehicle pop. Once the lacquer is cured under infra-red lamps, the tyre is re-inflated, and the wheel is ready to go back on your car.
Why Choose Professional Restoration Over DIY?
I often see DIY kits sold in shops, but they usually lack the industrial-grade lacquers needed to withstand the heat and friction wheels endure. A professional repair typically costs between £60–£180 per wheel depending on the finish, which is a fraction of the cost of a new OEM alloy. Plus, because DentDash is a mobile service, you don’t have to spend your Saturday morning sitting in a cold garage waiting room.
If your wheels are looking a bit weathered or you’ve had a recent argument with a Devon kerb, don't let it ruin the look of your car. You can send me a photo of the damage via WhatsApp to 07572 114436, and I’ll give you a clear, honest quote. I’ll even pick the car up from your home or workplace and bring it back looking sharp.